Okkervil River!

Earlier this fall, I was saddened to learn that Okkervil River (a quality folk/alternative outfit out of Texas, one of my personal favorites) was planning a show in LA as part of their Stand Ins tour while I was here in far-off Scotland. In early October, however, one of my friends at Pop! Music pointed out to me that they would actually be making a stop in Glasgow (that's about an hour from Edinburgh by bus) on their European leg. I immediately scooped up tickets.

Just as I heard from my friends who actually did attend last month's show, Okkervil did not disappoint. I'm used to seeing bands that are great on record and so-so live, but I can honestly say that Okkervil, even with a limited repertoire of instruments shipped trans-Atlantic, sounded better in Glasgow than I've ever heard. Lead singer Will Sheff's unique brand of histrionics and subtle crooning blended seamlessly with the intricate soundscapes that have made Okkervil of my favorites. The lyrics, already powerful, brought to life by a gesture, an upward glance. My only complaint: I didn't get to hear "Bruce Wayne Campbell Interviewed on the Roof of the Chelsea Hotel, 1979."

The Sunday evening concert was also my first time in Glasgow. When we arrived at Buchanan Bus Station, the rain turned to hail, remarkably, then suddenly stopped. From the moment I stumbled off of the bus, slightly carsick, I realized that Glasgow had a different feel than Edinburgh and really anywhere I've been in Europe over the past three months. It was more commercial, more brightly lit, more American. The subway was squat, more like the boats in 'It's A Small World' at Disneyland than what I had expected from Scotland's only underground system. And the venue, Oran Mor (which apparently means 'Big Song' in Gaelic), was great. Best shellfish and chips I've ever had.